Pod Hotel, New York

May 22, 2011
Pod Hotel Garden - photo by Rob McFarland

Pod Hotel Garden - photo by Rob McFarland

The Sun-Herald, Australia – May 22, 2011

Could I swing a cat? Probably not. Maybe a kitten. But I don’t care. I’m staying in a room that costs a fraction of what most New York hotels charge and I’ve got Manhattan on my doorstep.

The Pod Hotel is one of a growing number of New York properties that has tiny rooms at tiny rates. Offering “style on a shoestring”, it’s marketed as a hip and funky alternative to the big hotel chains. The rationale being, why pay a fortune to doss down in the city that never sleeps?

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Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California

April 17, 2011
Spa pool at Post Ranch Inn - photo by Rob McFarland

Spa pool at Post Ranch Inn - photo by Rob McFarland

The Sun-Herald, Australia – Apr 17, 2011

It’s not often you feel like an eco-warrior when you check in to a resort but since arriving at Post Ranch Inn, I’ve been feeling positively virtuous.

After a welcoming glass of Taittinger, my car is whisked away and I’m ferried to my room in an eerily quiet Lexus hybrid. I’ve just learnt that 70 per cent of the electricity I’ll use will be provided by the vast bank of solar panels I passed on the way in and that the property pioneered the region’s first commercial grey-water system.

Now, as I explore my enormous ocean-front suite, I notice telltale touches that confirm the owners are serious about their environmental footprint: refillable containers of soap, shampoo and conditioner in the bathroom, reusable glass bottles of water by the bed and a stainless-steel water bottle that’s mine to take away.

It’s enough to make you want to hug a tree. And thanks to Post Ranch Inn’s extensive planting program, there’s an abundance of huggable giant redwoods on the 40-hectare property.

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Safari magic at Singita Lebombo, South Africa

November 14, 2010
Pool at Singita Lebombo safari lodge - photo by Rob McFarland

Pool at Singita Lebombo safari lodge - photo by Rob McFarland

Deidre in the driver’s seat turns around and whispers to me: “Did you hear that?”

I can’t hear anything apart from my heart pounding between my ears. I’m in an open-top Land Rover in an area teeming with lions and my nerves are jangling from a heady mixture of fear and excitement.

We move towards the source of the sound and, eventually, I catch it: a low, cough-like bark that I never would have imagined could have come from a lioness.

“That’s her calling her cubs.”

Minutes later, we see her – a fully grown lioness – and for the next hour follow her as she meanders through the African bush. She is completely unfazed by our presence and at one stage walks so close to the jeep that I physically recoil when she glances up and looks me in the eye.

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CityCenter, Las Vegas

July 4, 2010
Aria Resort & Casino - photo by Rob McFarland

Aria Resort & Casino - photo by Rob McFarland

It’s 11pm and I’ve just walked into the foyer of Aria, the 4004-room hotel centrepiece of the new CityCenter development in Las Vegas. Given there are several hundred people milling around, interspersed with a dozen security guards, I automatically presume there’s been a bomb scare or a fire alarm. When I question a nearby staff member, he just smiles wryly and says, “No sir, they’re all waiting to get into the club.”

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Cruising the Bay of Islands

February 14, 2010
Ipipiri cruising the Bay of Islands - photo by Rob McFarland

Ipipiri cruising the Bay of Islands - photo by Rob McFarland

New Zealand is hardly short of picturesque holiday spots but the Bay of Islands, located three hours’ drive north of Auckland, is particularly idyllic. The natural bay provides a sheltered haven for boat lovers with dozens of islands to explore and plenty of coves and inlets in which to moor.

Looking at this tranquil picture today, it’s hard to believe it was once known as the “hell hole of the Pacific”. But if you’d visited the town of Russell in the early 1800s, you’d have found a lawless outpost famous for its drunkenness, gambling and prostitution. Sadly, I couldn’t find any evidence of this but I did stumble across a fascinating museum and several excellent cafes.

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A night in the Liwa Desert

January 24, 2010
View of Liwa Desert from Qasr Al Sarab - photo by Rob McFarland

View of Liwa Desert from Qasr Al Sarab - photo by Rob McFarland

I’m starting to think this might be an elaborate joke. Allegedly, I’m on my way to one of the most impressive new resorts in the Middle East but I’m now more than 200 kilometres from Abu Dhabi and for the past hour have been surrounded by nothing but a vast expanse of featureless desert.

Suddenly, we turn off the main highway on to a small unmarked road that snakes among towering sand dunes. I give the driver a look that has “are you sure you know where you’re going?” written all over it but he continues regardless. All I keep thinking is why on earth would anyone build a hotel out here. It’d be too hard, too complicated, too expensive. No, someone is definitely having me on.

And then I see it. A riot of towers, turrets and serrated roofs in the sandy vastness. It is enormous. It’s not a resort, it’s a city. It’s the sort of vision that should be accompanied by a fanfare of trumpets.

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Staying inside Hampton Court Palace, UK

September 26, 2009
Mural on the ceiling of the Queen's Bedchamber - photo by Rob McFarland

Mural on the ceiling of the Queen's Bedchamber - photo by Rob McFarland

Maybe this isn’t such a good idea. After spending all afternoon reading about Hampton Court Palace’s supernatural residents, I’ve decided in a wine-fuelled act of uncharacteristic bravery to venture inside the palace grounds at midnight.

The moon has bathed everything in a ghostly half-light as I creep across the uneven cobblestones of the palace’s main courtyard. I pass through a narrow brick archway and enter a dimly lit alley. It is eerily still and unnervingly quiet.

My imagination kicks into overdrive. I start to wonder how I’d react to hearing the “piercing and unearthly shrieks” of Catherine Howard, King Henry VIII’s fifth wife, who was dragged away by guards after being sentenced to death for adultery. Or to seeing the pallid form of his third wife, Jane Seymour, who has been spotted hanging around staircases dressed all in white and holding a lit taper.

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A night on the Great Barrier Reef

August 23, 2009
Great Barrier Reef

Great Barrier Reef

There’s a feeling you get when you say goodbye to family or friends after a long night of entertaining: a mixture of sadness because they’re going and relief because you can finally relax and put your feet up. That’s exactly how I feel now as I watch Fantasea Wonder retreat towards the horizon.

Six hours ago I was one of 120 passengers who boarded the high-speed catamaran at Hamilton Island and made the two-hour cruise to Reefworld – a floating pontoon permanently moored over the Great Barrier Reef. All day we’ve enjoyed snorkeling and diving, made use of the pontoon’s underwater viewing chamber and taken trips on its semi-submersible to gaze at the amazing variety of coral and fish.

There’s been the option to take a helicopter joy-flight over the reef and we’ve feasted on a barbecue lunch under the warm Queensland winter sun.

But while 120 people made the trip out, only 119 are going back. Sadly, someone’s been eaten. I’m kidding. I’ll be staying here overnight.

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Kagaya Hotel, Japan

June 28, 2009

Traditional Japanese string instrument in hotel foyer - photo by Rob McFarland

Traditional Japanese string instrument in hotel foyer - photo by Rob McFarland

I’m sitting at a bar wearing a dressing gown, listening to a lime green-clad Mexican band singing La Bamba. I’m surrounded by dozens of similarly dressed Japanese, most of whom are smiling and clapping along as if this is a perfectly normal way to spend a Friday night.

It sounds like the sort of bizarre dream brought on by too much cheese before bed. What’s stranger still is I’m nowhere near Mexico and despite La Bamba being one of my least favourite songs, I’m smiling and clapping along, too.

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W Hotel in Hong Kong

May 24, 2009
Kitchen restaurant in W Hotel Hong Kong

Kitchen restaurant in W Hotel Hong Kong

It’s the age-old question when flying back from Europe: to stopover or not to stopover? Do you utilise precious time that could be spent in your destination on a night somewhere along the way that may or may not leave you feeling less zombie-like when you arrive home?

Until recently I’d always subscribed to the straight-through theory don’t muck around with all the hassle of getting to some anonymous airport hotel just hunker down, grin and bear it. And then I stayed in the W Hong Kong.

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Island Paradise – Lord Howe

March 20, 2009
View of Mount Gower

View of Mount Gower

You know you’ve arrived somewhere a little different when a beaming Qantas representative jumps on the plane and cheerily welcomes you to your destination. He’s clearly happy with his lot on Lord Howe Island and it’s not difficult to see why.

Lord Howe, between Australia’s east coast and Norfolk Island, was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1982 for its “rare collection of plants, birds, marine life and exceptional natural beauty”. The surrounding waters were declared a marine park in 1998.

What this means in real terms is spectacular scenery, unique wildlife and stunning vistas wherever you turn. I lost count of the number of times I was stopped in my tracks by yet another perfect postcard scene.

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Tracing human evolution at Forum Homini, South Africa

March 8, 2009
Human evolution sculpture at Forum Homini

Human evolution sculpture at Forum Homini

I’m sure if Mrs Ples’s husband had told her that in two million years’ time she’d be splashed across the covers of glossy magazines, she’d have told him to stop being an idiot and go out and kill something tasty for tea.

But having been unearthed in South Africa’s Sterkfontein Caves in 1947, she’s one of the reasons that a 47,000-hectare region 45 minutes from Johannesburg is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The area is known as the Cradle of Humankind and Mrs Ples is the affectionate term for the most complete skull of an Australopithecus africanus (our ape-man ancestor) ever found in South Africa. Since this seminal find, the region has produced more than 600 hominid fossils, making it one of the world’s most bountiful paleontological sites.

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Magical Mollies, Auckland

September 14, 2008
Mollies' dining room

Mollies' dining room

In the genteel Auckland suburb of St Marys Bay, Mollies is the most unashamedly romantic hotel I have ever stayed in. I was there on my own and had to constantly fight the urge to propose to one of the staff.

The hotel is named after the current owner’s mother, who ran it first as a guesthouse and then as a motel.

When Frances and her husband, Stephen, took over in 2001, it was in desperate need of modernisation. They pulled up the ’70s-style cream shagpile carpets, tore down the fake mahogany panelling and threw out the burnt orange and avocado furnishings. Eighteen months and a lot of work later, the hotel reopened as Mollies and has been collecting awards worldwide ever since.

Frances tells us this potted history over pre-dinner drinks in the sitting room where guests congregate among a sea of flickering candles and billowing silk drapes.

It is a beautiful room with polished wooden floors, an imposing marble fireplace and an eclectic range of furnishings including Philippe Starck’s famous transparent Louis Ghost chairs. She makes no apologies for the extravagance, saying with a smile: “I like to make every evening a romantic occasion. I love having far too many candles and far too many flowers.”

It’s a wonderfully relaxed and intimate environment and a great opportunity to mingle with other guests.

The best is yet to come, however. Frances is an experienced opera voice coach who has taught all over the world. She introduces us to Morag Atchison, an opera singer with New Zealand’s national opera company, and an expectant hush descends over the room.

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Forage & Feast at The Lake House, Daylesford

August 31, 2008
Trout Meuniere

Trout Meuniere

My teammate spots it first: a handmade sign on the side of the road advertising fresh eggs for $3.50. Perfect. I slam on the brakes and we both jump out and race up the drive. Time is of the essence. We’re already half an hour late and we have no idea where the other team is. On the house’s front porch is a fridge and an honesty box. We need proof, though, so while I pose holding a carton of eggs in one hand and pointing animatedly towards the fridge with the other, he takes a picture with a disposable camera.

This, of course, is when the front door opens. If the owner is in any way fazed by the sight of two grown men taking a picture of her fridge full of eggs, she hides it well.

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Heavenly Huka Lodge

November 4, 2007
Dinner in Huka Lodge's Wine Cellar - photo by Rob McFarland

Dinner in Huka Lodge's Wine Cellar - photo by Rob McFarland

It’s not quite the first impression I had hoped to make. Not only do we pull up at the reception of one of the world’s leading resorts in a dented rented Daewoo but two minutes after our arrival the manager comes to tell us they are experiencing what he amusingly describes as a small challenge.

The keys are locked inside the car and did we have a spare set? I sheepishly shake my head. Do not worry, he says, we will take care of it.

Ten minutes later the car is in the car park and our luggage is in our room. Later we discover that the Automobile Association has been called in but no one makes a big deal about it and we are made to feel as if this is the sort of trivial incident they encounter on an hourly basis

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